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 Drag Link Replacement 
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Post Drag Link Replacement
Katie has informed me that I am replacing the drag link and I was wondering if there were any tips. There is a great article/how-to on the center pin floating around but I haven't seen one on the drag link. Is it covered in the Bentley manual? Any general tips to know what kind of trouble I am in would be helpful.

Thanks!

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Moose - 67 Riviera
Crusty - 76 Auto Westy Deluxe
Terrapin - 77 Westy Deluxe
Myka - 03 Rialta FDD


Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:53 am
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
remove cotter-pins thru hex-nuts, if any,
Soak hex nuts & spindles w/ PB Blaster, AeroKroil, WD-40, etc. - some kind of penetrating oil,
use 6-pt. box-end-wrench, Tubing wrench, or 6-point socket ( 1/2" drive is preferred ), & may need cheater-pipe,
loosen hex nuts, to where top of hex nut is slightly Past flush w/ ball-joint spindle stem,
use BFH & pickle-fork,
some heat, if necessary ... ( probably Will be ), then,
BiggeR F'n hammer & pickle fork.

bang.
Bang.
BANG !

cuss, Cuss, CUSS ,,, repeat above ^^^ banging sequence, as necessary, w/ more cussing, if needed,

done.

install new drag link, hex nuts & cotter pins.

drive & Smile, smile , Smile !

;-)


Thu Oct 16, 2014 3:24 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
Awesome.. Thanks..

What about a Ball Joint Separator instead of the pickle fork? Some reading seems to imply that will make it go faster and hopefully with less cussing.

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Moose - 67 Riviera
Crusty - 76 Auto Westy Deluxe
Terrapin - 77 Westy Deluxe
Myka - 03 Rialta FDD


Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:13 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
True ^^^
:
:
*IF*
:
:
u can find a "small enough* one ,,, makes it So much ez'r ,,, good luck finding it ;-) tho ,,,


Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:40 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
also, on my 1967 bus, one of those spindles is up-side-down, so no room for the ball-joint separator, basically :cry:


Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:41 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
David's procedure works. Pretty sure there is a VW tool that makes it easier, but good luck finding one. Bill Bowman probably has one. If your bus is real nice and pretty I wouldn't recommend the heat and hammer, unless very carefully.

I use another trick that Everywhere Ed told me about several years ago. Good medium size hammer, hit on the side of the arm where the tappered piece is going thru. Hit it one or two good wacks and make it sing like a tuning fork. Also use the PB Blaster prior to this like DB mentioned. I've done it many times with little to no damage if your careful. Also minimal cussing. Basically the vibration makes the joint loosen up. Works for tierod ends as well.


Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:19 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
VW_Dave came to the rescue and helped us replace the drag link. We ended up using the cheap harbor freight ball joint separator and it went pretty smooth. Got the replacement from wolfsburg west and the design was ever so slightly different (locking nuts vs. cotter pins.)

Thanks for the steps on here, helped us get everything prepped and ready for surgery.

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Moose - 67 Riviera
Crusty - 76 Auto Westy Deluxe
Terrapin - 77 Westy Deluxe
Myka - 03 Rialta FDD


Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:35 am
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
:mrgreen:
glad it went so well, & mazelTov !!


Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:31 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
The Harbor Freight ball joint separator is defiantly worth the $20 - $25. I’ve never had an issue using it, and it doesn’t require any hammering or cussing… although a slight to moderate (to heavy) amount of alcohol is still needed to get the job done right. 8)

Attachment:
Separator.jpg
Separator.jpg [ 35.11 KiB | Viewed 1049 times ]


As Adam pointed out, the Wolfsburg West draglink came with nylon locknuts, as opposed to castle nuts. I wouldn’t have thought that’s a big deal, unless of course you’re a purist, but in the end it was definitely more of a pain in the ass than the stock setup. The issue is that the nylon creates a lot of friction with the threads during installation, which cause the draglink ends to rotate. The only way to tighten the nut is to keep a lot of pressure on the ends. It’s not a big deal, but it’s definitely less desirable (and cheaper) than the factory design. Regardless, we still managed to have a lot of drinks... I mean fun.

Peace. Dave


Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:38 pm
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Post Re: Drag Link Replacement
Great procedure description above, I'll add: I like to use a little "anti-seize" grease on the bore contact surfaces and threads, so that it comes apart easier in the future...

Bill


Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:37 pm
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