Aircooled Missouri

Engine runs bad
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Author:  widehatch [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

if you had an oil leak from the rear main seal, replaced it and its still leaking youve got one of 2 problem probably. your tranny input shaft seal could be leaking. if the leaking oil smells like gear oil, bingo!!. if not then it could be the often overlook, always forgotten about flywheel o-ring seal. either one of these two seal could resemble a rear mail seal leak. its good practive to when ever you remove the flywheel from the engine to alway replace the o-ring. when you remove the flywheel look at the side that mates up to the crank and there should be a n o-ring inside of the grove.


Author:  widehatch [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 7:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

timing marks can drive you nuts since VW made so many changes over the years, different size engines had different distributors which in case had different timing marks on the crank pulley. and with the interchangeabilty of all these parts who knows what someone did to the engine before you owned it. plus some distributors are different in the way they fire. my distributor #1 points at #2 cylinder while some #1s point at #1. also whoever built the engine last could of put the distributor drive gear in 90 or 180 degrees off. that will drive anyone nuts trying to diagnose. if you can send up some pics of your engine in the #1 TDC position with your distributor cap off so we can help you. also try checking out its a world wide website with lots and lots of information. there are a lot of good folks on there as well as a few dicks ( internet tough guys ). although its not for local only like ACMO is is useful and informative.

here is a thread i for that might interest you.

good luck

Author:  rod30 [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 8:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

This is the photo you requested. The oil is motor oil. I was not aware there was an o-ring on the back side of the flywheel. In fact, I am sure my flywheel does not look like the one in the picture.

IMAG0246.jpg [ 352.37 KiB | Viewed 898 times ]

Author:  Culito [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 9:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

Hmmm...maybe that IS a vac-only distributor. Post the part numbers of your carb (old and new) and distributor.

Author:  rod30 [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

I found the following numbers on the distributor. The were on the back so had to do it with a mirror, but I think it's correct.

On carb I found.
30 PIC 2
VW 126-1

Author:  widehatch [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 12:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

you have the same pulley as i do. the notch on the left is TDC. the middle is 7.5 BTDC and the right is 10 BTDC. are you lining up the notches with the split on the engine case? picture looks a little off. also that looks like a stock 1500cc distributor which i believe should be timed at TDC. also, your distributor should have a notch in it as well indicating #1. the line in the middle of the rotor should also line up with the notch on the body of the distributor. get everything lined up static then throw a timing light on it an it should be good to go. if there is still any problems them we need to start looking somewhere else. carb out of adjustment, points worn out. could be anything.

Author:  rod30 [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

In the photo I just pulled it around so you could see the marks. When I line up the rotor with the mark on the body of the distributor, the pulley is currently at the mark 7.5 BTDC because that is where I it timed at. It runs fairly good at this setting. Seems to run better at 10 BTDC. In my book it shows a 67 should be at 7.5 and a 68 at TDC. I wonder if I have an early 68 that uses the 67 timing?

What was the difference between the 67 and 68 that moved the timing to TDC in 68? Anybody know? I have been working on my own cars for many years and don't recall having one that was on TDC. They were all a few degrees early. Maybe this started when they tried to produce cleaner exhaust?

I did take it for a drive this morning and it seemed to hesitate when I would give it gas to fast, but ran fairly well.

Author:  widehatch [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

i think the timing changed when VW introduced the 1500cc in the beetle. i think 67 would still be a 1300cc. keep in mind that those books are written as if you have a bone stock complete engine as if it was never touched since it left the factory. if you can validate that your enigne is 100% period correct than i'd go by what the book says. your photos show you have a H case so its at least a 1500cc. i think the hesitation could be carb issue, possibly the accelerator pump.

Author:  Culito [ Thu Jul 18, 2013 5:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

113-905-205M, Bosch 0231 137 021, 113-905-205T, 0231 137 035 or 036
Points: 01 009
Points Replacement Plate Assy: VW 111-905-227B, Bosch 1237 110 139
(Note: Order 01 013 Points when using this Plate Assy)
Condensor: 02 007 - Note: If equipped w/AC use 02 069
Rotor: 04 006
Cap: 03 001
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 6 Volt - 00 001, 12 Volt - 00 015
Blue Coil: 6 Volt - 00 016, 12 Volt - 00 012
Vacuum Can: 07 017
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 7.5deg BTDC Static or @ 800-950rpm w/strobe w/vacuum hose disconnected and plugged
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum (Advance Only): 17-19deg @ 1.3 In. Hg, 24-28deg @ 3.2 In. Hg

Specs for your distributor. Use this, the hesitation is most likely a carb problem, so don't compensate by advancing the timing.
Here's a quick trick: Take the air cleaner off, rev up the engine nice and high, and shove your hand over the carb throat until it dies. It will suck at your hand pretty good, so be prepared. Sometimes this sucks the crud out of the carb passages.

Carb adjustment:

Author:  rod30 [ Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:09 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

I want to again say thanks to the folks who took time to help me with this engine.

Also, regarding the flywheel o-ring. I must have been wrong in what I remembered the back side looked like. I did some digging and found that mine must have the o-ring. What I found said they stared using the o-ring during the 1300 engine production. So, one of these days I will remove the engine again and replace it.

Author:  Willeye [ Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:51 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

Another tip on the main seal. Make sure you get it seated all the way in and put some grease around the inner lip. That way it doesn't get worn down the first time the flywheel spins on it.

Author:  BulliBill [ Thu Aug 22, 2013 10:01 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

Some very good advice given here (way to go "Widehatch", "Culito" and others!). As mentioned before engines and components have almost certainly been changed and swapped out over 30 to 50 years... Who knows what various items from variuos engines you have there?

Do yourself a HUGE favor and spend the bucks needed to get yourself the appropriate Bentley Workshop Manual for your Beetle. The "Idiot Book" is also somewhat helpful, but if I could only get one, it would definitely be the Bentley manual!

"Assuming" that everything in and on the long block of your motor is stock (big assumption here!) then I'd go by the tuning specs for the engine case number that you have, assuming you have the same era components from the engine's era (carb, cam, crank, stock rocker arms, distributor, etc.) Eventually obtain and install a thermostat and bracket/linkage for those flaps. Definitely get a correct era stock "oil bath" air cleaner.

Where in Missouri are you? Near any of us who can look over your shoulder to help/advise? Limp that Bug up to BNNTA next weekend (cheap plug), and almost all of us on here will be there and can perhaps help get her running much better...


Author:  rod30 [ Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

Thank you for the reply. I do have the engine running good. I did the timing a 7.5 and it seems to work good. I still am troubled with the oil leek. I have replaced the main seal (twice), the o-ring on the fly wheel, and the transmission shaft seal. I am now thinking that it is coming from the seem in the engine case. It drips off that bolt that holds the block together at the transmission end of the motor. I have had the engine out five times in the last few months and at this point I just want to drive it. I park it over a catch pan to keep it off my driveway. I may wait until winter before I tackle the oil leak again.

Author:  mowerman [ Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:20 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

If it is a small leak and you can actually see where it is coming from (seam?), try cleaning all oil from that area and putting some silicone over the seam. Temporary fix, but it might keep your driveway clean.

Author:  David [ Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad

man, that ^^^ truly sux ,,, just be Thankful, tho', If it's just a few drips, & not a really Huge leak ,,, :oops:
it might be that ,,, i Hope not, but might be ,,, someone in the past has dinged up one of the case-half sealing surfaces, whilst trying to split the case :oops:
it's not that un-common, some jokers will stick a screwdriver or pry bar in between case halves if they are difficult to separate ,,, do NOT do that, Evah !!!
Good luck, man !
- - -
p.s. = cully, that 'carby adjust' link was Very Good !!! Many Thx !!! :mrgreen:

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