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 BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration... 
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
is there any reason a regular 1156 won't work?
http://www.bulbs.com/product/1156B2

EDIT - you said 6v.. sorry,
what you want then is an 1129:
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and- ... 65001_0_0/

ref:
http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en- ... 0Chart.pdf

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Brian W. | St. Louis MO
'64 SO-33 Hatch-Top Westy
'73 Thing
'87 Vanagon Syncro Westy / Subaru EZ30d conversion


Tue Feb 02, 2016 4:43 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
That's just a standard automotive bulb, Go to the parts store and buy it's match in 6 volts. Around here we don't have many options for 6 volt stuff.


Tue Feb 02, 2016 7:25 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
I dug thru some spare good, used 6 volt bulbs, batched the bayonet-style base and installed a 6 volt 18watt bulb and it works awesome! Got plenty of spare used ones too! Thanks guys/gals. This is a cool vintage accessory for the DC!

Bill


Sat Feb 06, 2016 12:17 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
So thanks for the suggestions, I dug into my stash of used and new 6 volt bulbs and selected a 6 volt, 18watt bulb with a single contact nib on the bulb housing and tried it out in the accessory "trouble" light. Worked like a charm, plus I have several spare bulbs to boot...

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It lights up nicely in a well lit garage, so I imagine that it will really come in handy if I ever need to change a tire on the side of the road on a dark, spooky night! This vintage accessory light has a 3.5 meter long cord so it will reach almost any corner of the car to provide illumination.

Bill Bowman


Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:34 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
The weather has been nice again lately, so now that what little salt was thrown out on the roads during our very mild Winter weather here in St. Charles. the Spring rains have cleaned off the roads. I just got back from a particularly hard and long flight assignment, and was staring (as I often do) at the pretty DC in my garage, and decided to hop in and enjoy a seat in the cab. I noticed that I had just under 200 miles on the "trip" odometer, the new 36hp engine and the restored DC itself. I couldn't let that stand anymore. I fired it up and pulled it out into the sunshine for a spin. Objective? To not return until I had at least 200 miles on the odometer!

So a quick 15 minute spin down the nearby Interstate and back to the garage was in order. No issues, beautiful, smooth ride, and back into the garage she went with exactly 200 miles on the odometer. Just in time to scurry upstairs to watch "Big Bang Theory"! Nice evening so far!

Bill Bowman


Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:24 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Well, I finally got around to getting the white VW logo painted onto my four Dove Grey hubcabs for the Double-Cab.

A while back, I had new reproduction hubcaps stripped of their grey paint. Since this is a Dove Blue paint Bus, the hubcap color was to be Dove Grey. I had a local buddy prep and powder-coat these hubcaps in Dove Grey colored powder-coating.

These repro caps weren't stamped/pressed quite as deeply in some areas as original hubcaps were. So I couldn't successfully spray paint the logo area and wipe off the higher areas, so I needed to resort to hand paint the logos by tiny brush.

This week I pulled the hubcaps and cleaned the logo areas of any wax by rubbing the depressed logo areas with blue paper shop towels soaked with wax and grease remover. Once dry in a minute or two, I took a small 1/4 ounce bottle of Testors brand #1145 White model enamel paint and two different tiny touch-up brushes.

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I slowly and carefully tried to hold my hand steady and fill in the depressed logo areas. I found that by using a little Testors brand #1156 Brush cleaner/thinner and added a little bit to the white paint bottle to thin the paint down. I discovered that the thinner paint flowed easier and while wet, the paint quickly flattened out nicely eliminating most brush marks. But because it was thinner, I ended up laying down three brushed coats to fully cover the Dove Grey paint.

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Here they are below all finished after three thin coats. Not bad looking for the hands of an older guy, huh?

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After I re-adjust the brakes again after driving the DC for 200 miles to allow the brakes and other systems to "settle-in" I will pop these caps on and stand back and admire my handiwork. I did the same logo paint work about 4-5 years ago on the Commercial grey hubcaps placed on my 1959 Double-Door Panel Bus with original Factory SWR paint (seen below). They have held up just fine so far with no flaking or paint loss at all.

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I can't wait to get 'em back on the DC!

Bill


Sat May 07, 2016 1:21 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Hi Gang,

I was doing some small stuff on the "to-do" list to further finish off the DC, as well as getting it ready to make a trip in early June to Effingham. It should be going, as long as the noisy transaxle doesn't mess up my plan. I'm going to try to head over to "Funfest" early on Friday and take a quiet back road route and keep my speed down and just enjoy the 120 mile ride over to the VW festivities.

Here is a look at the install of the "Blazecut" automatic fire suppression system that I installed on this restoration of my Double-Cab. As you can see, the 36hp motor is installed and I take comfort in knowing that this automatic system is there in place over the engine. I also have a back-up dry chemical fire extinguisher mounted in the front cab.

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This is a non-invasive fire suppression system that can be installed without any drilling or modification to the vehicle. If needed for some high-falootin' "concours" judged show, it can be easily removed and later re-installed for the drive home. But I'm never gonna remove it from the DC because I believe that common sense safety updates on vintage vehicles like seat belts, automatic fire suppression, etc. should not be critiqued by a modern-day car show judge. Ultimately, I want this system to protect all the work I have done, the investment in it's restoration. I think I have fire suppression basically covered.

Bill Bowman


Tue May 17, 2016 5:05 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Getting ready for an upcoming show at the MAM "Funfest" in Effingham, IL in early June. I broke out some L 31 "Dove Blue" touch-up paint to add some in between the "V" and the "W" in the white nose logo. Check out the results...

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I love how it looks! I even went right over and did the same thing to my SWR '59 DD Panel Bus. A little and seldom noticed detail, but it looks cool!

Bill


Wed May 25, 2016 4:41 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Looks great! and I would do it regardless, but I think I've seen some debate as to whether this is actually correct or not? or maybe it's just certain years & models?

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Thu May 26, 2016 3:52 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Hi Brian,

I could be wrong, but I think it was more of an era thing. I think they did it up thru a certain date and then stopped. Either way, it's a nice touch that should never have been stopped. Glad I finally did it to both of my '59 Buses...

Bill


Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:50 am
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
My bus doesn't have it since it's SWR/BG the emblem is SWR. Guess I could make that spot BG.


Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:35 am
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
It has taken a lot of time and effort to put this Double-Cab together. No regrets at all, it was mostly fun, just the stuff I like to do. It was great to suck the balls right up into my body, turn the key and turn the DC eastward on Friday morning. It was great to take over the slow lane (I was cruising at 55mph) and drive her out on Interstate 70 with all the speed demons the whole way roundtrip on my first long trip in the Dove Blue DC. Eveyone was cool. most waved or gave the DC a thumb's up and then floored it again! I put about 250 miles on it over the weekend. The little 36hp engine was awesome, and the noisy transaxle did just fine too, just made more noise that it needs to. Here are of a couple of shots for you of the Bus while it was in Effingham this weekend:

At the Friday evening downtown party:
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Mike Yager asked me to stay with them at their little (stunning) shack because I was bringing the DC, doing a seminar about it, and camping might be problematic in such a utilitarian vehicle. They set me up in their incredible Guest/pool house right alongside their Chevy "bowtie" logo shaped pool, and handed me a remote to the 8-car garage so I could stuff the DC inside at night. There were some very cool cars in there including a shiny red Ferrari. I really brought down the value of the place...
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At a Hot VWs magazine photoshoot for a future magazine feature story early Sunday morning about two miles down the street from the MAM "Funfest" show site...
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Thanks again to the Yager's and their crew for their hospitality at Funfest, and personally to Mike & Laurie Yager for their gracious hospitality towards me and the DC!!

I am not worthy!

Bill Bowman


Fri Jun 10, 2016 1:12 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
So I decided to build my own set of left and right side wooden window press jigs. I took a few photos but not enough to show the entire construction process, but you'll get the idea. Perhaps this might help motivate a few of you into creating your own jigs to make this task less frustrating.

I had previously borrowed an old well-used wooden jig built long ago by an old friend. You'll see it in one of the later photos or being used in action in the build thread for my '59 DC. To see the entire '59 DC build thread just go to:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0

...and to see the press operation of the vent windows for that particular '59 DC build go to page 35 by clicking here;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... &start=680

My buddy did some extra modifications with a router so that his press could be used to mount both Left and right sides with one jig (with removal of the handle on the vent window latch). I decided to build a pair of left and right side jigs so that once installed, the latches did not need to be disassembled/removed to press the glass in.

So off to my local Home Depot I went. I bought a 2' by 4' small sheet of 3/4" thick plywood, a small bottle of Elmers wood glue and some 1 1/4" drywall screws. I cut the 2' by 4' sheet down into four 2' by 10" wide pieces. Then I used a fairly unmolested vent window assembly and gently clamped it to the plywood (we don't want it to shift while tracing) to carefully trace the outer outline onto two of the four sheets.

clamped:
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tracing the outline:
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tracing the channel for the post:
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One my lines were traced, I carefully used a jigsaw with a "fine" blade to cut out the basic shape of the vent window. I used a wood chisel to carve a 1/2" wide and 1/2" deep channel into the plywood where the lower threaded shaft of the frame would lie (a router would have been nice here, I don't own one, but the wood chisel worked fine). After test fitting my frame into my cut wooden jig and making sure there was a snug fit (make sure to allow just enough room for cushy felt material to be inserted later to protect the paint when pressing). Notice below that the upper edge of the vent window frame drops down into the 3/4" thickness of the upper plywood. We'll fix that later and provide room for the "Nike swoosh"/rain deflector plates to lie during the pressing operation.

checking the fit:
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...then I clamped the lower uncut 2' by 10" sheet to the upper 2' by 10" sheet with the vent window shape cut into it. No glue or screws yet! Just clamps. I used the vent window to help locate the spot that I would need to drill out a elongated hole so that the short metal upper pivot arm of the vent window frame could then protrude down into the hole in the lower backing plywood sheet. I marked it and drilled it out and used a Dremel tool with a tiny wood carving bit to clean things up. Then I trial fit the vent window again to double-check for fit. All was good!

the drilled-out elongated hole for the upper pivot:
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No photos taken here, but now I could smear oodles of wood glue between the mating surfaces between the two 3/4" plywood sheets and press them together. I also used the drywall screws liberally to help squish the two sheets together while the glue was drying. The screws stay in also. Let dry.

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Below is a shot of both of my new still unfinished jigs (left and right sides) along with the borrowed left/right jig. You can see the hole bored into the borrowed jig so that you can take off the vent wing fastener handle , insert its' post into the hole and therefore use it for either side.

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Now to allow the vent window frame/glass to "float" level when in the 3/4" thick upper jig and to allow space for the "swoosh", I used some various length scrap strips of wood about 3/16" thick and cut to about 3/8" wide (the depth of the metal vent frame). I cut/trimmed them and then wood glued them into place in various locations to support the frame but not get in the way of the "swoosh".

strips of 3/16" wood help float and level the assembly in the jig:
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hard to see, but perhaps you can see that the "swoosh" fits into the frame and the strips glued to the jig do not interfere with either the earlier or later versions of the "swoosh":
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Eventually I will cover all the paint-to wood contact surfaces with thick felt for paint protection:
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As seen in my '59 DC build thread, I bought and used a pair of plumbers pipe-clamp sets and pipe to evenly press the window glass into the metal vent window frame. Note that I will use 13" long strip of wood against the exposed glass edge and then two pipe clamps to crank the glass evenly and firmly into place!

I like that I have made a pair of left and right side jigs instead of one L/R jig so that I don't have to disassemble the mounted vent latches while in the presses, and that two windows can be done at the same time. A little light finish sanding and a coat of protective stain and they look pretty nice too. A great addition to the tool collection of any serious Split-Bus owner!

I hope that this tutorial on jig-building helps someone out! This homebuilt tool sure makes doing this procedure a lot more fun...

Bill Bowman


Last edited by BulliBill on Mon Nov 14, 2016 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Fri Oct 21, 2016 11:33 am
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
So for quite a while I've stored the metal frame for my low-profile Brazilian "tilt" or bed cover under our deck outside. I finally got it out, scrubbed it clean, and very carefully lifted it into place to get ready to mount it to the bed. Here is a look at the tilt in the DC...

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I have the original black vinyl cover stored away, but I want to eventually find a local shop who can use it as a pattern to make a new version, possibly in heavy canvas for the frame.

I have the original VW taller hoops and bows set and a canvas tilt cover stored away, but I prefer this lower streamline tilt set.

Bill Bowman


Last edited by BulliBill on Sat Nov 26, 2016 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Sat Nov 12, 2016 9:23 pm
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Post Re: BulliBill's 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
Interesting - it doesn't bolt to the bed in the front? Never noticed that before. Is that just a Brazilian tilt thing, or do all of them bolt down like that?

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'64 SO-33 Hatch-Top Westy
'73 Thing
'87 Vanagon Syncro Westy / Subaru EZ30d conversion


Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:20 am
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